My Summer Reading List: Kitchen Confidential
Originally published on June 17, 2009.
Last time on My Summer Reading List I reviewed Ruth Reichl’s Tender at the Bone: Growing Up at the Table, the beautiful story of a little girl in love with food who grows up to be a renowned food writer. Tender is a romantic telling of a life spent in food. Kitchen Confidential is a whole other beast.
Semi-retired chef Anthony Bourdain shocked the world with his tome on the inside workings of the restaurant industry, Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly. As the story goes, Kitchen Confidential blew the lid of the industry upon it’s release in 2000 by revealing the drunken, drug-laden debauchery that exists in American professional kitchens. I question how many people were genuinely surprised by the revelations in Bourdain’s work, after all the restaurant industry employs more people than any other industry in the nation, save the Federal government, over 12 million jobs nationwide.
I believe that most of the hullabaloo was feigned. After all, of those in the media not currently employed in the Life (as Bourdain calls it) most at least used to be employed in it. To a lifer like myself the book was comfortable. It was like sitting down with an old friend over a bottle of Johnny Walker getting three sheets while reliving memories and swapping tales.
Bourdain paints a perfect picture of life in the kitchen, testosterone driven trash talking, seducing servers and drinking way too much. But what surprised me was the author’s love of food. Images sketched in words of his first raw oyster freshly plucked from the brine while only a lad to his experiences with the amazing creations of Scott Bryan, Eric Ripert and Ferran Adrià. Throughout the text I was constantly reminded of both Bourdain’s love affair with food and his sheer talent for the smithing of words.
The boy’s got chops. At the time of its publishing I don’t think Bourdain knew just how good a writer he was. The book was so explosive, so popular that it actually was made into a television series, all though it was a short lived one. Fast forward nearly a decade and Tony is no longer commanding the kitchen at Les Halles, no longer going on three-day coke benders (I hope) and no longer chasing tail. He has become what he loathed and found it’s a pretty nice gig, this celebrity chef thing.
I made sure to put Kitchen Confidential on my summer reading list because I knew how important a book it is. What I did not expect was how much I would learn from it. In fact, I have gotten a whole new reading list from it. Bourdain emphasizes how important it is for any chef to read the classics, if you will, of our profession.
In sports the greats of the game are known by just one name: Hank, Bo, and Michael. Sports fans know of whom I speak. The culinary world is no different and it is these chefs of which Bourdain speaks. Works of literature produced from chefs so revered that they are known by just one name, Escoffier and Bocuse. So thank you, Tony. Not only have you penned a great book, but you have also made my summer reading project a little longer.
Next: Heat by Bill Buford.
Ruhlman? Yeah, there’s an App for that.
Michael Ruhlman may have changed the way American’s cook with his groundbreaking book Ratio: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking. His peers think so, “Professional cooks and bakers guard ratios passionately so it wouldn’t surprise me a bit if Michael Ruhlman is forced into hiding like a modern-day Prometheus, who in handing us mortals a power better suited to the gods, has changed the balance of kitchen power forever. I for one am grateful. I suspect you will be too.” Alton Brown
But writing a life changing book is not enough for Michael Ruhlman. He has taken the essence of himself and put it into a an iPhone application. But don’t take my word for it; take his:
Stu’s New Digs!
Welcome to the new home of Stuart Reb Donald’s Wannabe TV Chef Blog. The old blog is still live and can be accessed by clicking HERE as well as being listed in Mi Amigeauxs (blogroll) to the right. All of the old articles are still there while I go about moving them over here. In fact I’m going to launch a new category WannabeTVchef Classics to make the old articles easier to find here. Rather than trying to move them in alphabetical order I’m going to move them according to popularity instead.
This new site and custom look are the result of lots of hard work and sleepless nights. I want to take this time to thank the fine people at AllWebCo.com for their patience and help in making this transition. I have been using AllWebCo for over a decade. While other web hosting companies have come in a haze of publicity and gone in a blaze of obscurity AllWebCo has remained rock solid and courteous. I highly recommend them for any hosting, custom template or domain registration needs you may have. It is no understatement that I could not have this shiny new site without their help.
And without further adieu I welcome you to the new Wannabe TV Chef Blog!