Eight Mile

Review: Burger Master in Eight Mile, AL

Most of us who have been walking this planet for more than a few decades have had one of “those” phone calls.  You know the ones – an old school mate calls you up to tell about the loss of a dear friend.  For most people those seconds before during and after one of those calls will be with them forever; psychologists call it a flash bulb memory.  They are formed when someone witnesses something so astonishing that the brain records everything about the moment.

One shared example is the 9/11 attacks – if you remember watching the news that day then chances are you can recall the minutest details like where you were, who was in the room with you and maybe even what you were wearing.

A little over two years ago I got one of “those” calls.  A guy I had known since I was 11 years old called me and said, “Did you hear the news?”

Fearful that yet another friend had failed to reach the age of 50 I braced myself, perhaps it was just someone getting a divorce.  There was even the off chance that the news was good like Uncle Roy hit the Power Ball for $18 mil, “What news?”
“The Burger Master caught fire yesterday and burned slap up.  Gutted it.”

Anyone who has ever eaten at the classic American diner on Hwy. 45 understands how devastated I was.  Though I didn’t try Burger Master until I was in my thirties most of my family and friends had been eating there since they first opened the doors back in 1965.  And it seems everyone has their favorite menu item.  My sister loved the Nanner Puddin’ while my brother and father were burger men.  My neighbor, a former Chickasaw police officer, vehemently proclaims that the fried seafood there was, “as good if not better than any of the big restaurants on the Causeway.”  His wife was a sucker for the onion rings.

I was heartbroken but no longer.  Burger Master has reopened and is putting out the great American food that made it a legend.  I have made a few visits since the reopening and things are a little different now.  Gone is the stark interior with the quaint handmade signs plugging fruit pies and reminding customers that profanity would not be tolerated.  The new digs are esthetically superior to the old with a multi-color tile floor, dark wood paneling and nifty black leather and walnut tables.

It really is a very attractive décor that brushes right up against fancy without crossing over into it.  Just as the old building was a classic example of the American diner of the 60’s the new one is an example of what a modern American diner should look like.  But all of that isn’t worth much if the food isn’t good.

Sure there are some people who’ll grumble that it isn’t as good now but they are usually those people who balk at even the slightest alteration in their regimen.  In my visits to the New Burger Master I have experienced food that is as good as ever.  The fried shrimp, the onion rings, the French fries with gravy and of course the namesake burgers remain to this day, “as good if not better than any of the big restaurants on the Causeway.”

The Burger Master is located at 4616 Saint Stephens Rd. in Eight Mile.  (251) 457-1472

Everyday Béchamel

Originally published by Lagniappe in 2004. This is the first food article I ever wrote.

Béchamel is one of those funny French words that no one in the States can quite figure out how to pronounce. Is it bay-shuh -mel? Or possibly boo-shuh -may? And what is that silly looking apostrophe thing doing hanging out over the second letter? And while we are on the subject what the heck is it anyway, a fancy sports car?

A Béchamel is one of the “five mother” sauces of classic French cuisine first created by Louis de Béchamel a steward of King Louis XIV circa 1700. At its base it consists of butter, flour, and milk. This sauce’s consistency can vary from thin to quite thick and it adapts to many different dishes depending on how you alter the base recipe.

This is all very nice, but why would Roy from Eight Mile care about some hoity-toity French food?

Because, Roy, you have eaten it all of your life.

How many of us have grown up with our mothers or grandmothers fixing a great big pan of milk gravy to sop our biscuits in? That’s right kids, sawmill gravy is nothing more that the nefarious Béchamel with a slight recipe adjustment. In the South we substitute bacon or sausage drippings for the butter. Add some fried salt pork, fig preserves, and black coffee and you have a breakfast fit for the most cantankerous NASCAR fan.

For the record the word ‘biscuit’ is also of French origin.

Think that is the only time you’ve encountered Béchamel? Think again. How about macaroni and cheese, or Alfredo sauce, or spinach cheese dip, or cream of mushroom soup? Even chicken potpie uses a variation of Monsieur Béchamel’s invention. It is also appears in Fondue from Switzerland and the Queso from your favorite Tex-Mex restaurant. It’s everywhere!

As you can see Béchamel is not as foreign as you might think. So rather than dismissing Béchamel as just another high-brow dish meant only to give the appearance of culture and sophistication (see Tiramisu), let’s explore its culinary potential. If you are not convinced afterwards then toss it on the trash heap of French culture right next to the beret.

What red blooded American does not enjoy a gooey grilled cheese sandwich? When we are feeling especially sassy we have even been known to stick a piece of ham in between those two golden slices of cheese. Well in France they go one better, Croque Monsieur. In essence a grilled cheese sandwich, but in reality much, much more. This little offering is so gooey it must be eaten with a fork.

Croque Monsieur
8 thick slices French bread
1/2 pound ham, thinly sliced
1/2 pound Gruyère or aged Swiss cheese, thinly sliced
1 cup grated Gruyère or aged Swiss cheese
1/4 cup Dijon mustard Butter for spreading
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
2 Tablespoons flour
2 cups whole milk
Salt & pepper, to taste

Prepare the Béchamel by melting butter in small saucepan until it just starts to bubble. Add flour, and cook, stirring constantly until smooth but not brown. Whisking constantly, add the milk, continuing to cook until thick. Remove from heat and season. Transfer to a bowl and cover by placing a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the sauce not the lip of the bowl. Preheat the broiler and have a griddle or skillet ready. Spread the mustard on one side of the bread. Top with ham and cheese and cover with remaining bread.

Generously butter both sides of the bread.

Place sandwiches on hot griddle or skillet and cook about 3-4 minutes or until golden brown on both sides. Transfer the sandwiches to a broiler pan or baking sheet. Spread some of the béchamel on top of each sandwich and then top with the grated cheese. Broil about 2 minutes or until the top is golden and the cheese has melted. Serve immediately. Sounds good doesn’t it? Believe it or not in Paris this is considered a “healthy” snack.

As you can see not everything from France smells funny and looks like it needs a shower. The French passion for Jerry Lewis is disturbing to say the least, but Béchamel for instance is yummy. Give it a try in whatever form fits your appetite.

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Stuart in 80 Words or Less

Stuart is a celebrity chef, food activist and award-winning food writer. He penned the cookbooks Third Coast Cuisine: Recipes of the Gulf of Mexico, No Sides Needed: 34 Recipes To Simplify Life and Amigeauxs - Mexican/Creole Fusion Cuisine. He hosts two Internet cooking shows "Everyday Gourmet" and "Little Grill Big Flavor." His recipes have been featured in Current, Lagniappe, Southern Tailgater, The Kitchen Hotline and on the Cooking Channel.

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Stuart’s Honors & Awards

2015 1st Place Luck of the Irish Cook-off
2015 4th Place Downtown Cajun Cook-off
2015 2nd Place Fins' Wings & Chili Cook-off
2014 2015 4th Place LA Gumbo Cook-off
2012 Taste Award nominee for best chef (web)
2012 Finalist in the Safeway Next Chef Contest
2011 Taste Award Nominee for Little Grill Big Flavor
2011, 12 Member: Council of Media Tastemakers
2011 Judge: 29th Chef's of the Coast Cook-off
2011 Judge: Dauphin Island Wing Cook-off
2011 Cooking Channel Perfect 3 Recipe Finalist
2011 Judge: Dauphin Island Gumbo Cook-off
2011 Culinary Hall of Fame Member
2010 Tasty Awards Judge
2010 Judge: Bayou La Batre Gumbo Cook-off
2010 Gourmand World Cookbook Award Nominee
2010 Chef2Chef Top 10 Best Food Blogs
2010 Denay's Top 10 Best Food Blogs
2009 2nd Place Bay Area Food Bank Chef Challenge
2008 Tava: Discovery Contest Runner-up


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