Review: Jonathan Waxman’s “Italian, My Way”
When foodies talk about chefs they speak in hushed tones about the likes of Mario Batali, Emeril Legasse and Todd English. When those chefs get together they speak in hushed tones about chefs like Daniel Boulud, Jacques Pépin and Jonathan Waxman.
Chef Jonathan Waxman is one of the all time great American chefs hailing from the “Provence of the US,” Northern California. But Waxman’s early days were spent chasing the rock and roll dream (been there) relying on his trusty trombone to lead him to fame and fortune (done that). Eventually he gave up his dreams of rock stardom in lieu of becoming a chef (got the T-shirt).
When many think of Waxman they think of the French trained chef that helped define California Cuisine as the executive chef of Alice Water’s famed Chez Panisse in Berkley. But it wasn’t until 1979 that people began to realize his brilliance. That was when he left Water’s tutelage to open Michael’s Restaurant in Santa Monica.
Soon the accolades came flooding in and it didn’t take long for Waxman to move to the bright lights of New York. It is there that he opened Jams Restaurant on East 79th Street and it has since been followed by Bud’s, Hulot’s, Jams of London and Table 29.
Through the years Waxman has played mentor to dozens, perhaps hundreds of young chefs including Iron Chef Bobby Flay. Flay worked the line at both Bud and Jams and it was Waxman who first introduced the young chef to Southwestern Cuisine. Flay says of his mentor, “Jonathan Waxman was the first person to teach me what good food was.”
So it came as some surprise to me that Jonathan Waxman, master of California Cuisine and a pioneer of Southwestern had just published a cookbook of Italian recipes entitled Italian, My Way: More Than 150 Simple and Inspired Recipes That Breathe New Life into Italian Classics (available at amazon).
So I got a review copy from the publisher and decided to take it for a spin around the block. First thing you see on the cover are the words, “Forward by Tom Colicchio.” Man, if Colicchio is writing your foreword it is a testament to the regard other chefs of caliber hold you in.
If you are one of those people that simply cannot stand a cookbook that is not overflowing with brilliant and colorful food porn then this is not the book for you. If you love innovative recipes from someone who is truly one of the great cooks of our generation then saunter on over to amazon and order a copy.
Not that there are no pictures. There are a few, mostly in black and white and crafted in an artistic, almost nostalgic format, like looking through an old photo album with your 90 year old Sicilian grandmother.
But the heart and soul of every cookbook are the recipes and Waxman has put together 150 where he re-imagines classic Italian cuisine. Nothing drastic, mind you, the chef simply applies the spirit of Italy to the ingredients found stateside. Take for instance this little gem:
Next Food Network Star 6 Rehash
The finale to Next Food Network Star Season Six is tonight so I thought I would put together an index of posts to remind us just how we got here:
- Next Food Network Star Goes Hollywood (official Food Network Press Release)
- Next Food Network Star 6 (my preview of the new season)
- Episode 1 Review
- Episode 2 Review
- Episode 3 Review
- Episode 4 Review
- Episode 5 Review
- Episode 6 Review
- Episode 7 Review
- Episode 8 Review
- Episode 9 Review
- Past NFNS Finale Foul-ups (a review of the dubious past of NFNS)
Next Food Network Star 6 Finale
Why does it seem like this season has been going on for years? Maybe because this was the weakest field of NFNS contestants to date. Of the twelve seven never stood a chance and an eighth was at best a dark horse. So that means there were only four legitimate contestants in the whole contest: Aarti, Brad, Tom and Herb. With the finale upon us three of those four remain – Aarti, Tom and Herb.
Many Tweeting the show and commenting on blogs across the Online have stated that they don’t really see anyone in this year’s cast that they think they could watch. In fact that seems to be the prevailing thought with most fans of the show. True there may not be another Guy Fieri in this group but for sure none of the final three are Aaron McCargo Jr or Amy Finley either. And let’s be honest, other than Guy, no one really watches the shows of NFNS winners.
Here are my thoughts on the final three contestants:
Aarti Sequeira – She has the most star potential. She brings something to Food Network that they have never had, an Indian chef. That is important because Bob Tuschman really wants an Indian show on the “big network.” But more than that Aarti has proven she has range. Throughout the competition she not only showed the flexibility of Indian cuisine but she also proved proficient in others having won challenges with Mediterranean, Spanish and Mexican dishes. Just think, Food Network hasn’t had a chef who’s specialty was an Asian cuisine since Ming Tsai. That was over a decade ago.
Herb Mesa – He is an immensely passionate person. His love for his family is something that I think everyone will take away from this season. In a country were many parents only go through the motions of parenthood, Herb attacks it with zeal. He is also a talented chef but unfortunately I think that the direction he wants to go, healthy food, is one that the Network has tried on many occasions with little success (see Kathleen Dahlman, Ellie Krieger and Juan-Carlos Cruz before he became a murder suspect). However, I think Herb’s point of view would make a highly successful show on the right network. I believe he is tailor made for Planet Green.
Tom Pizzica –What a fricking wild card! When Tom is on he is another Guy Fieri – humorous, stocky, funky hair and bold food. When he is off he just flat out sucks. Aarti I’d like to meet at a food bloggers conference, Herb I’d love to cook with but Tom . . . Tom I want to grab a beer with. He seems like the guy who’d sit through a marathon of South Park and then put in the movie. One thing is for sure, in his best challenge he made a potential employer out of both Bobby Flay and Todd English. I’d say he is already a winner.
Who do I think should win? After what we’ve seen this season I would have to say that Aarti has earned the win but not by much.
Who do I think will win? Again it is hard to go wrong with Aarti. Herb and Tom, though entertaining, do not bring anything new to the Network where as Aarti brings something they’ve never had and desperately want. Remember last year the race between Jeffrey Saad and Melissa D’Arabian was very close so ultimately, in my opinion, demographics decided the winner.
Thanks for playing:
Alexis Hernandez – went home week 1.
Doreen Fang – went home week 2.
Dzintra Dzenis – went home week 3.
Darrell “DAS” Smith – went home week 4.
Paul Young – went home week 5.
Brianna Jenkins – went home week 6.
Serena Palumbo – went home week 7.
Brad Sorenson – went home week 8.
Aria Kagan – went home week 9.
There was no real mystery in the final challenge; it’s how they always wrap things up. Each contestant shoots a pilot for their show concept while some Food Network star acts as the director. This year it was Rachael Ray. I highly doubt that the final challenge has ever really determined a winner. There’s the usual curtain call of former contestants and the seriously over played, mellow dramatic, extended pause before announcing the winner (seriously reality TV producers, that trick has gone stale).
So without further eloquence I would like to congratulate The Next Food Network Star . . .
[ad] Empty ad slot (#1)!
Aarti Sequeira
Congratulations to Aarti. Hopefully for season 7 I’ll be in her shoes or at least some that are similar to hers only in a size 13 extra wide. Until next year NFNS’ers!
Past NFNS Finale Foul-ups
This Sunday night is the final of season six of the Next Food Network Star. The finalist are Aarti, Herb and Tom but I’m guessing you already knew that. The fact that the show has only produced one legitimate star in it’s first five tries has not stopped viewers from tuning in each week to follow the ups and downs of the contestants vying for the chance to be the second. NFNS remains the number one rated show on the Food Network.
That is strange because of the history of, let’s say, questionable endings to some of the past seasons. The first two seasons went OK, not much controversy but in season three the fireworks started. Set the way back machine:
Season one was historical in a couple of ways. It was the first such contest of it’s kind. Second, the winners were a gay couple which, too, made it ground breaking. Dan Smith and Steve McDonagh are bright and talented caterers from Chicago. Their winning show, Party Line with the Hearty Boys, was not very entertaining but that wasn’t as important as the standards set by that first season.
Season two yielded the only Next Food Network Star winner to ever actually become a Food Network star, Guy Fieri. And a star he has become. Those TGIFriday’s commercials speak to the California culinarians mass appeal. He has hosted Guy’s Big Bite, Guy Off the Hook, Ultimate Recipe Showdown and another show you may have heard of, Diner’s Drive-ins and Dives.
Season three is where things started getting – what’s the word? -oh, yeah, suspicious. JAG would have won, should have won, but for the last minute revelation that he had exaggerated his resumé. This resulted in an 11th hour return of recently booted Amy Finley who, given a second chance, ended up winning the contest (just like in a Hollywood script).
Why is this suspicious? Having been through the NFNS process I know how thorough their background checks are. Honestly, it’s easier to slip something past the FBI than it is The Food Network. With that in mind the idea that FN hadn’t bothered to check the accuracy of resumés just doesn’t wash. I do know this, the inncident was huge for the ratings.
Season four the shinannigans were even more outlandish. A stand-up comedian who was so unfunny it was actually painful, a boorish elitest who described anyone who has ever eaten boxed macaroni and cheese as “white trash” and a chef who was scared of fish and stayed weeks too long because she was pretty and satisfied a missing demographic at TFN, Indian cuisine.
There were two contestants who blew away the competition every single week. Shane Lyons and Kelsey Nixon were both perfect packages, however the judges (Bob Tuschman in particular) kept harping on their youth. It didn’t matter how well they performed, they were too young to take seriously. That of course begs the question, why let them into the contest at all? Nixon, by the way, won TFN’s fan poll on their own web site in a land slide and is to this day one of the most popular talents in the Food Network stables.
After eliminating the two best contestants, in successive weeks no less, we were left with the trio of Liza Garza, Aaron McCargo Jr. and Adam Gertler. Garza arrived as a foppish diva with serious cooking chops who, more than anyone else on the show, listened to the judges and turned herself into exactly what they said they were looking for. Gertler was good on camera but had limited culinary skills. McCargo was a passable cook but was terrible on camera; still is.
In an episode designed to whittle it down to two contestants McCargo, who had been a model of mediocrity, bombed. He bombed hard. In fact, it was without a doubt the single worst performance in the history of the show. Adam was okay and Garza blew the doors off the studio. Easy choice right? Boot the guy who bombed, right? Nope, the judges decided to change the rules and bring all three back for the finale. Aaron should have been gone but given a second chance brought home victory (just like in a Hollywood script).
Speaking of Lisa Garza she recently announced that she has signed a contract for her own cooking show.
Then there was the slip on the web site. Apparently, some web geek accidentally revealed the outcome of the show days before the final episode was to premiere. The web fiasco turned into a boon as fans who had tuned out because of the questionable antics (the elimination of Kelsey Nixon, especially) tuned back in to see if the web screw-up was a publicity stunt.
Season five was a little more tame with the exception of contestant Debbie Lee. Considered by many to be the most vile and despicable person in the history of reality cooking shows, Lee cheated, back-stabbed and sabotaged herself all the way to the next-to-last episode. At least that’s how it appeared after a few days in the editing room anyway. Melissa D’Arabian won and as her reward was given a TV show called $10 Dinners. Which oddly enough was not the show concept that won her the NFNS title. Coincidentally there was a national casting call back in 2008 for a cooking show called $10 Dinners that was surprisingly similar to the show D’Arabian now hosts.
So that brings us to season six and who knows what stunts, if any, Food Network has up it’s metaphorical sleeve.
