wintzell’s

Review: Snapper’s Seafood in Biloxi, MS

A few weeks back I made my first trip to the Katrina ravaged Mississippi Gulf Coast since, well, before Katrina.  I have been to a few coastal communities but this was the first time I had actually gone to the coast itself.  US Highway 90 is one of those great coast-to-coast US highways that pre-dates the Eisenhower Interstate System.  The stretch of Hwy. 90 that traverses Mississippi’s coastline is called Beach Blvd. and it is the main drag in Ocean Springs, Gulfport and my destination, Biloxi.

Over 20 years ago when a certain trombone player accepted a scholarship to a music school on the Mississippi Gulf Coast there were plenty of hotels, restaurants and souvenir shops along Beach Blvd. but the casinos that finally delivered the region from a century of economic ruin brought by post Civil War Reconstruction were not.  When those casinos showed up Biloxi was transformed from a sleepy sea side tourist trap into a bona fide vacation destination.  Then came Katrina.In the span of one night Mother Nature eradicated the region’s economy in one 30 foot high wall of water.  The storm surge that struck the area did more damage in 10 seconds than New Orleans endured through the entire storm.  Everything was leveled.

Some six years later Biloxi is open for business and they did it largely without the colossal helping hand from FEMA and heart broken Hollywood stars that New Orleans received.  The casinos were the first to return followed by the other touristy businesses.  But there are still large sections of Beach Blvd. that lay desolate.  It was at the end of one stretch of nothingness that I lucked into Snapper’s Seafood.

Snapper’s is not a fancy restaurant nor does it have the personality of some of the legendary seafood eateries on the Gulf Coast like Wintzell’s Oyster House in Mobile or Flounder’s Chowder House in Pensacola.  But it was clean (it should be, virtually every building on Beach Blvd. is less than six years old).  They have a long dining deck that overlooks the beach.  Most importantly, after a day of sampling craft beers, they had fried food.

The temptation was there for a big seafood platter but then I spied my Kryptonite – a fried soft shell crab po’ boy.  Some people don’t care for soft shell crab.  An old buddy of mine says they look like tarantulas and won’t go near one.  Hey, that’s more for me.  Snapper’s did everything right, big crispy steak-house fries and a nice juicy crab dusted with cornmeal dressed with lettuce, tomato, onion and tarter sauce.  They also placed the sandwich into a panini press giving it a crusty exterior and making it easier to handle.  A nice touch.

My assessment of Snapper’s is that it is not the kind of place you put on your Bucket List but it is the kind of place you wish you had in your neighborhood.  Snapper’s Seafood is located at 1699 Beach Blvd. in Biloxi, MS.  (228) 374-7962

Diary of a Wannabe TV Chef – PT 6

This is the latest installment in a continuing series that documents my personal quest to become the host of my own cooking show. Since this is a relatively new “career,” there are no vocational programs or community college courses to prepare me for it. From what I have seen, the two most important elements in securing such a position are passion for food and plain old dumb luck. Born with a passion for food, I set out to make my own luck.

Greener Pastures

WintzellsWintzell’s Oyster House has been in operation in Mobile since 1938. What began as an oyster bar with six stools is now a multi-unit restaurant powerhouse that is unique in character and the standard bearer for what a true Gulf Coast oyster house should be. I escape from the Fern Bar to become a part of this remarkable piece of Mobile history as an associate manager.

Wintzell’s managerial formula is that there are no FOH (Front Of House) managers and no BOH (Back Of House) managers. Rather, all managers work both aspects several times a week. My stint there allows me to work at three of the four stores as well as the commissary which makes a good deal of the gumbo, jerk chicken chili, and other signature Wintzell’s dishes. I also get my first taste of catering.

My employment there also has me working notable events like the Fairhope Arts and Crafts Festival, which transforms the small artist colony of Fairhope, AL into a 200,000 visitor carnival of well-to-do art lovers from across the country. I also spend a week at the original downtown location helping during Mardi Gras. For those who do not know, Mobile, not New Orleans, is the home of American Mardi Gras, having celebrated it for nearly half a century before some engineer decided to erect a city at that peculiar crescent shaped bend in the Mississippi River.

Though the money is great and the experience is good, I have little time left to work towards the ultimate goal of becoming a TV chef. I have not written an article since going into management, over a year in fact. In the summer of 2006, I leave the time-consuming field of restaurant management to become a sous chef for a national chain Italian restaurant.

The chain has a wonderful dedication to quality ingredients and making things from scratch. All in all it is a pleasant experience with one exception, I am dirt poor. On the bright side I do have time to work on my web site and to start writing again. Towards the holidays of 2006, I see an ad that will have a profoundly effect on my quest to become a TV chef.

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Stuart in 80 Words or Less

Stuart is a celebrity chef, food activist and award-winning food writer. He penned the cookbooks Third Coast Cuisine: Recipes of the Gulf of Mexico, No Sides Needed: 34 Recipes To Simplify Life and Amigeauxs - Mexican/Creole Fusion Cuisine. He hosts two Internet cooking shows "Everyday Gourmet" and "Little Grill Big Flavor." His recipes have been featured in Current, Lagniappe, Southern Tailgater, The Kitchen Hotline and on the Cooking Channel.

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Stuart’s Honors & Awards

2015 1st Place Luck of the Irish Cook-off
2015 4th Place Downtown Cajun Cook-off
2015 2nd Place Fins' Wings & Chili Cook-off
2014 2015 4th Place LA Gumbo Cook-off
2012 Taste Award nominee for best chef (web)
2012 Finalist in the Safeway Next Chef Contest
2011 Taste Award Nominee for Little Grill Big Flavor
2011, 12 Member: Council of Media Tastemakers
2011 Judge: 29th Chef's of the Coast Cook-off
2011 Judge: Dauphin Island Wing Cook-off
2011 Cooking Channel Perfect 3 Recipe Finalist
2011 Judge: Dauphin Island Gumbo Cook-off
2011 Culinary Hall of Fame Member
2010 Tasty Awards Judge
2010 Judge: Bayou La Batre Gumbo Cook-off
2010 Gourmand World Cookbook Award Nominee
2010 Chef2Chef Top 10 Best Food Blogs
2010 Denay's Top 10 Best Food Blogs
2009 2nd Place Bay Area Food Bank Chef Challenge
2008 Tava: Discovery Contest Runner-up

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